Addis Ababa’s Syrian Culinary Haven: A Story of Resilience and Generosity
In the vibrant neighborhood of Bole Michael, just a stone’s throw from Addis Ababa’s international airport, lies a modest restaurant whose walls tell the stories of old Damascus and Aleppo. This unassuming establishment, owned by Syrian chef Ahmed Ibrahim, has become a culinary beacon in a city brimming with vibrant multiculturalism. As the sun begins to sink each evening, the sizzling of shawarma and the crackling of oil frying kebeiba—the beloved bulgur and ground meat balls—fill the air, mingling with the amiable chatter in Arabic and Amharic.
In the kitchen, Chef Ahmed and his team bustle about, preparing for the evening rush. They fill small bowls with creamy hummus and sweet dates, a ritual that embodies the hospitality of the Syrian culture. During Ramadan, a month celebrated with reflection and generosity among Muslims worldwide, Ibrahim has embraced the spirit of giving back to his community. “When I came to Ethiopia in 2020, I was starting from scratch,” Ibrahim recounted in an interview with Al Jazeera. “Now, with a family of my own, I want to recreate that sense of home and community here.”
The current Syrian refugee crisis has seen more than 5.5 million people flee their homeland since the onset of the war in 2011. For many, neighboring countries like Lebanon and Turkiye offered refuge, yet little has been documented about the handful who have found their way to Ethiopia, where fewer than 1,500 Syrians reportedly reside. Local media suggest that many live in limbo, unregistered and navigating a complex network of humanitarian concerns.
Despite these daunting challenges, the streets of Bole Michael have taken on a unique character, becoming something of a Syrian enclave. This formerly working-class area has historically been a refuge for various nationalities, including numerous Somali, Sudanese, and Yemeni refugees. Recently, however, it has also witnessed an influx of Syrian families and businesses, each adding their own flavor to the local landscape.
Chef Ahmed’s establishment, aptly named Syria, is just one of several Syrian restaurants that have sprouted up in the area. Following a tumultuous journey through Sudan, Ibrahim saw the opening of his restaurant as a chance to share flavors from his homeland while cultivating a sense of belonging in his new environment. Throughout Ramadan, this mission transforms into an act of selflessness, providing meals to those in need within the community.
As the sun sets and the call to prayer echoes through the streets, diners start to grace the tables of Syria. Among them is Zeynab Mohammed, a Syrian mother who navigated the trials of life after escaping conflict in Khartoum. Her gratitude for the familiar comforts of home is palpable as she shares a chicken shawarma wrap with fries. “Life here isn’t easy,” she reflects, her voice barely above a whisper. “But moments like this remind me of home, with the shared meals and the warmth.”
Enthusiastic regulars like Salem Berhanu frequent the restaurant, fostering a blossoming friendship between local Ethiopians and Syrian refugees. Salem finds joy in this multicultural tapestry, especially during Ramadan, when opportunities for dialogue and connection flourish amidst shared meals.
However, the resilience of the Syrian community in Ethiopia is not without its struggles. Syrian refugee Aisha Abdul recalls her perilous journey and a sense of fear that once shadowed her life. The invitation she received from the Ethiopian Prime Minister to a local iftar was a bright spot in her journey, representing hope after years of displacement. Now, Aisha sells scented charcoal at busy traffic stops, battling against the odds in a foreign land.
Further from Bole Michael, in the more affluent neighborhood of Bethel, another Syrian establishment, Syriana, showcases the flavors of home through delectable offerings such as kunafa and baklava. Ahmed Abdulkader, the restaurant’s owner, has transformed the family business into a local favorite by engaging young customers through social media. Nevertheless, during Ramadan, he prioritizes outreach, providing meals for those in need and fostering a sense of shared community beyond cultural borders.
“Ramadan allows me to connect with my customers and give back,” he explains. Both Abdulkader and Ibrahim exemplify the spirit of hospitality and community that characterizes much of Middle Eastern culture, transforming their restaurants into safe havens for those longing for the familiarity of a shared meal.
The essence of generosity and community spirit shines through the interactions in these Syrian restaurants. Amid a backdrop of hardship and adjustment to life in Ethiopia, the bonds formed within the dining rooms remind these families of their roots while encouraging connection within their new homes.
